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jcrowder  > Portfolio > Visual Ethnography > Sueños Urbanos
The South American country of Bolivia is diverse in its people, geography and products. Ranging from the Amazonian rain forest in the north and east (comprising two-thirds of the country), to the high Andes of the west and dry deserts to the south, Bolivia’s has a vast landscape about three times the size of Texas. Equally interesting and varied are the people who live throughout the country. In the eastern lowlands live cultural groups such as the Siriono, Tacana, Yabuti, and Chiriguano, while in the highlands the Quechua and Aymara speaking people are most common. Despite the many cultural differences throughout the country, Bolivians share the basic necessities of food and shelter for survival. As the national infrastructure of roads, electricity grids and gas pipelines expand across the country, rural groups find it easier to travel, conduct business and learn about the world. Because of the difficulty to provide for one’s family in countryside, people leave their rural communities and migrate to cities, where they hope to find employment and improve their financial security. Although different from that in the countryside, city life is equally difficult, as obtaining the basic needs now require money.

This photo exhibit explores the process of migration and urbanization in Bolivia by following my friend Alvaro from his Aymara-speaking rural community near Tiwanaku to his current home in the city of El Alto. Beginning in the countryside, Alvaro and his family engage in a variety of means for agricultural production and animal husbandry. For traveling to the city, Alvaro employs both modern and traditional forms of transportation. Once in the city, Alvaro, like other migrants, must have a number of jobs in order to obtain and maintain food and shelter for his family. Some of these jobs come from his political affiliations with popular parties in the city while others are associated with the large markets that draw people from all parts of the region to purchase and trade goods. Frequently, Alvaro and his neighbors deal with the demands of urban life by raising food and animals in the city. Equally important to Alvaro is his spiritual life, an integral part of his successful survival in the city, as these rituals and beliefs provide him strength and guidance in his urban life.

As an anthropologist, my goal is to better understand Aymara migrants’ adaptation strategies for living in the city, while as a photographer, I explore their process through images, which I share and discuss with Alvaro and his neighbors. These photographs depict migrants and their everyday urban existence, exploring the beauty of the mundane: the slice of life we often overlook as we search for the excitement of more exotic occasions. As well, it is important to reflect upon how migration and urbanization are rampant throughout the Americas and affect the lives of thousands of people living across this country and in its cities. I present this essay of photos to stimulate one’s curiosity for learning about cultures in other countries, but also as a mirror to view the processes as they occur in the United States. The research and photography for this project was conducted from 1995-97, 2000, 2005, 2007 and most recently in 2011 with funding from a variety of sources, including the J. William Fulbright Scholars Program.


Jerome Crowder is a native Houstonian and visual anthropologist who earned his doctorate at the University of Pittsburgh (1998). Currently he is an Assistant Professor and Associate Director of the Institute for Medical Humanities at the University of Texas Medical Branch in Galveston, Texas. Dr. Crowder has traveled extensively throughout the Andes and South America, including an opportunity to teach and research at then National University of the Altiplano- Puno in 2003.
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Nevado Illimani, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia, 2000.
Illimani (21,184 feet / 6,322 m) is an extinct stratovolcano which rises above Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian Altiplano (high plain). The most southerly and highest of the major peaks in the Royal Range (Cordillera Real) of the Andes, Illimani dominates the sky and all of those below, including the cities of La Paz and El Alto, many villages along its skirt and the surrounding terrain. It is so high that on a clear day Illimani can be seen from the Peruvian city of Puno (see map). People throughout the ages have worshiped Illimani as a god, a home to spirits, and a holy site, for clearly it demands respect from all of those who approach it. The mountain has been the subject of many local songs, most importantly “Illimani” of which the refrain goes: “¡Illimani, Illimani, sentinela de La Paz! ¡Illimani, Illimani, patrimonio de Bolivia!” The mountain is a national symbol.
Lake Titicaca is the reservoir for water from snowmelt in these high Andean peaks.  Such drainage has created a lake 3,100 miles square (8,030 km2) and more than 922 feet (281m) deep.  The lake is shared by the governments of Bolivia and Perú.  At 12,493 feet above sea level (3,808 m), Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world.  This means that no other body of water at that altitude is large enough for the passage of ships.  Extending southward from Lake Titicaca is the Altiplano, a high fertile plain that over time has been home to many indigenous peoples.  

Illimani is a beacon for all of those traveling to La Paz, especially the Aymara speaking migrant farmers who live near Lake Titicaca, as the city is less than an hour away by bus. For decades La Paz has been a place to sell their crops and purchase goods; however, today La Paz is a place to find work and improve their lives. Since the 1952 revolution migrants have moved from the countryside (campo) into an area near La Paz known as El Alto, a city which has grown to hold more than three-quarters of a million residents (2007) and continues to grow each year.
Quinoa in the Tiwanaku Valley, 1996.
Early morning light illuminates this colorful crop of quinoa, one of the most nutritious foods in the Andes.  Archaeological records reveal that the Tiwanaku valley, known as the heartland of the Aymara-speaking people, has been inhabited since 200 BC.  Local people continue to live in adobe houses and to subsist on the land that their ancestors cultivated for hundreds of years before them.  As in times past, rural people depend upon family members and neighbors (their community) to run the farms and provide for each other in times of need.

Within the past fifty years, rural ways of life have become increasingly dependent upon produce prices in the city markets.  Today, there is not enough cultivable land to support everyone who lives in the countryside (campo).  In order to find work and sustenance, people are drawn to the many opportunities provided by the city experience.  The capital city of Bolivia, La Paz, is close to these rural valleys.  In the past few decades, it has become the home to many Aymara-speaking people who have migrated there to find a new life.
Preparing the Soil, 1995.
A native of Tiwanaku, Alvaro (the man pictured here) is familiar with the annual planting and harvesting cycles followed in the campo.  As Bolivia is south of the Equator, the Aymara people plant their spring crops in November.  Now a resident of El Alto (the outlying city sprawl around La Paz), Alvaro regularly returns to his family’s farm to help his parents and siblings cultivate the food they will need for the following year.  Here, he gathers dried sheep dung in a bag to use as fertilizer for their potato crop. Because of their dietary prevalence, potatoes are the only crops Aymara people organically fertilize.  Dried dung from larger animals, such as cows, is used in the home for cooking fuel.
Basilia makes Chuño, 2007.
Late in the winter afternoon the family gathers around the newly harvested potatoes and removes their shoes. The papas have been spread out along the ground, absorbing the warmth of the Altiplano sun, making them inhospitable for worms. We arrange the potatoes into small mounds, removing the rotten ones and selecting them by size. Everyone stands and chooses a pile. Without music we begin to dance on the potatoes, squishing the tubers with our feet, squirting the warm water onto the ground (and each other). Tonight it will freeze and the papas will lose more moisture. Within the week, the potatoes will have shrunk to less than half of their original size, have turned purple (iodine concentration) and keep for more than a year. 

In 1996 Basilia moved to the campo to live with her parents and raise her newly born son, Luis. There, she thought, he could learn farming and language skills that will prepare him as they help her parents run the farm. As Luis grew older Basilia wanted him to attend an urban school and used her family contacts to establish a network for Luis to use once he arrived. By 2007 Luis was living with cousins in El Alto and attending school, returning to Tiwanaku on the weekends to assist his family with the farm work.
Crops along the lake shore, 2000.
Besides potatoes and quinoa, wheat, barley and totora are significant crops for the Aymara farmers. Beds of totora reeds “float” along the shoreline of the lake and can be harvested year round. Totora is a very useful plant, serving as thatch for homes and fodder for cattle, sheep and guinea pigs—people even eat its roots, which taste like celery (ph’uti). Once dried, totora is woven for mats to sit on or tied together to build boats for fishing along the littoral. When the crops are harvested, sheep graze in the fields eating the discarded stems and plants.  Today, sheep are considered a source of protein, but primarily they provide a significant income for the peasant farmers who sell the meat for a profit in urban markets.  Beyond the lake rise the majestic peaks of the Cordillera Real, visible from all regions of the northern Altiplano, extending towards the city of La Paz.
Llamas along the Inca Trail, El Cumbre, 1991.
Synonymous with the Andes, llamas are known around the world for their wool and for their ability to carry loads on their backs (sometimes as heavy as 70 pounds / 31.75 kg per animal).  In pre-Columbian times, as in the present, llamas transported goods from the countryside to urban regions, along high Andean paths and more conventional roads.  In this image, a herd of llamas carries wood from the tropical valleys east of the Andes, up through Aymara villages, and over the mountains to the city of La Paz.  Although above 14,000 feet (5,100 m) — higher than any peak in the continental USA — this pass is well below the surrounding peaks.  Unlike horses or cows in similar circumstances, llamas are well adapted to this type of difficult work in the mountains.  It is therefore understandable that they are such an integral part of transportation in the Andes.
Chofer in the Altiplano, 1995.
Inside the bus, the driver (chofer) maneuvers his vehicle around blind corners and through river washes.  He dodges herds of animals as well as other vehicles that share the road.  The driver must pay attention to his course, but he keeps small talismans and sacred objects close by to protect him from what he cannot avoid.  Usually, his partner collects fares and secures baggage to the roof.  If you look in the mirror above the driver, you will see a woman seated to his left.  When traveling long distances, a chofer is sometimes accompanied by his spouse and family.  Buses like this are most difficult to drive when loaded beyond capacity.  On the right in this image, notice the silhouette of a man with a cap.  His close proximity to both the camera and the driver reflects how crowded the bus was that day during the trip across the Altiplano to La Paz.
Family at the Edge of the City, 1993.
Seated at the rim of the valley between El Alto and La Paz, this mother and her children exemplify the urban condition.  On her back the girl wears a manta, a square piece of cloth commonly used to carry goods such as those sold in a market.  Today, the woman has taken her two children with her to sell goods in La Paz.  Resting above the city, the family waits for a bus to take them down to the city.

Many families live in El Alto while they work in La Paz below.  More than 70,000 people move between the two cities daily, leaving as early as 4:00 am and sometimes not returning until after midnight.  Because urban life demands that residents participate in the capital economy, living costs are high and people must maintain more than one job in order to survive and support a family.  Alvaro and his wife, brother, and sisters live together in El Alto.  Each day they leave to sell goods in local markets, or to work as laborers in homes, businesses, or construction sites for people living in La Paz (Paceños).
The La Paz Valley, 1997.
Below Nevado Illimani, Choqueyapu (“River of Gold” in Aymara) is the traditional name for the La Paz valley.  The city of La Paz was founded in 1584 by a Spaniard, Captain Alonso de Mendoza, along popular trade routes and below the rim of the valley to protect it from the harsh Altiplano weather.  Today, growth in the valley has exceeded the limits of its walls and extended onto the plain above.  Until the late 1980s, these overflow neighborhoods (barrios) making up El Alto were part of La Paz proper.  They became a sovereign municipality on July 16, 1988, after much demand for their political voice to be respected.  Due to the rapid urbanization of the valley, native trees and shrubs have had a difficult time growing over the past twenty years.  In the foreground, dark green patches of eucalyptus trees have been planted to prevent erosion on the unstable dirt flanks of the valley.  One also can see the two-lane highway wind its way down from the rim of El Alto into the city of La Paz.  There is a drop in elevation of more than 1,000 feet between the airport in El Alto (13,287 feet) and downtown La Paz (11,900 feet).
Family at the Edge of the City, 1993.
Seated at the rim of the valley between El Alto and La Paz, this mother and her children exemplify the urban condition. On her back the girl wears a manta, a square piece of cloth commonly used to carry goods such as those sold in a market. Today, the woman has taken her two children with her to sell goods in La Paz. Resting above the city, the family waits for a bus to take them down to the city.

Many families live in El Alto while they work in La Paz below. More than 70,000 people move between the two cities daily, leaving as early as 4:00 am and sometimes not returning until after midnight. Because urban life demands that residents participate in the capital economy, living costs are high and people must maintain more than one job in order to survive and support a family. Alvaro and his wife, brother, and sisters live together in El Alto. Each day they leave to sell goods in local markets, or to work as laborers in homes, businesses, or construction sites for people living in La Paz (Paceños).
Family at the Edge of the City, 1993.
Seated at the rim of the valley between El Alto and La Paz, this mother and her children exemplify the urban condition.  On her back the girl wears a manta, a square piece of cloth commonly used to carry goods such as those sold in a market.  Today, the woman has taken her two children with her to sell goods in La Paz.  Resting above the city, the family waits for a bus to take them down to the city.

Many families live in El Alto while they work in La Paz below.  More than 70,000 people move between the two cities daily, leaving as early as 4:00 am and sometimes not returning until after midnight.  Because urban life demands that residents participate in the capital economy, living costs are high and people must maintain more than one job in order to survive and support a family.  Alvaro and his wife, brother, and sisters live together in El Alto.  Each day they leave to sell goods in local markets, or to work as laborers in homes, businesses, or construction sites for people living in La Paz (Paceños).
Family at the Edge of the City, 1993.
Seated at the rim of the valley between El Alto and La Paz, this mother and her children exemplify the urban condition. On her back the girl wears a manta, a square piece of cloth commonly used to carry goods such as those sold in a market. Today, the woman has taken her two children with her to sell goods in La Paz. Resting above the city, the family waits for a bus to take them down to the city.

Many families live in El Alto while they work in La Paz below. More than 70,000 people move between the two cities daily, leaving as early as 4:00 am and sometimes not returning until after midnight. Because urban life demands that residents participate in the capital economy, living costs are high and people must maintain more than one job in order to survive and support a family. Alvaro and his wife, brother, and sisters live together in El Alto. Each day they leave to sell goods in local markets, or to work as laborers in homes, businesses, or construction sites for people living in La Paz (Paceños).
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